Torrisi: Is it worth it?
Torrisi is the latest project from Major Food Group (the same group which owns Carbone), referencing old-school Italian cooking, with additional Jewish, Jamaican and Vietnamese influences.
TLDR: Torrisi is an enjoyable night out, with excellent drinks and some solid dishes. The restaurant, however, tries to craft an air of accessible exclusivity while keeping high price points, resulting in a transactional feel. I’d go back for a fun evening, but not as a regular.
The vibe: Torrisi has an varied mix of guests – there were casual diners sporting t-shirts, influencers in athleisure, and couples dressed up for a date. Waiters with bowties and a doorman, however, set a tone of exclusivity. The result is an atmosphere which feels simultaneously casual and inaccessible, with waiters giving you the impression that you can afford to order anything you want, ending the meal quickly and quietly if you realize you can’t.
The pastas are tasty but forgettable
The menu: The food is noticeably expensive, with mixed pay-off. The pastas, for example, are tasty but forgettable. The linguine with clams is rich and flavorful, but the clams are sparse and the pasta is clearly not made in-house, which doesn’t quite justify the price.
Torrisi’s take on “Chopped liver with Manischewitz”
The appetizers, however, are worthwhile. This is where Torrisi’s creativity really shines, subtly transforming familiar foods into something new. The “Chopped liver with Manischewitz” looks nothing like its Jewish deli counterpart – instead it’s repackaged as a rich liver parfait with Concord grapes and red-wine gelée. Same with the “Sliced boar’s head on rye”, which presents as a terrine.
The House Negroni and Old Fashioned
Torrisi approaches cocktails the same way, serving up classics with slight tweaks. The negronis are fantastic – the House Negroni is among the best I’ve tried recently, and the Negroni Sbagliato takes a twist by using Lambrusco instead of Prosecco. An espresso martini made for a lovely sweet finish to the meal, but still takes a second place to Dante’s.
The space: Torrisi is a beautifully designed restaurant, with high ceilings, copper and emerald tones, and warm leather seating. Pantry-style shelving, hams hanging on display, and large menu boards over the bar, are reminiscent of an old-school deli or saloon. Everything is well thought out, from the varied seating arrangements, to the Negroni glasses with slight indents to allow for easier holding.
