Virginia’s: Is it worth it?

Try the burger, but bring ear plugs

About: Virginia’s is an American bistro in the East Village, serving up a relaxed, yet elevated brunch and dinner offerings. The restaurant is in its second act, with Justin Lee leading the 2023 reopening (Lee was previously the owner of Fat Choy).

The menu: Virginia’s menu is comprised of smaller plates of classic American bistro fare – think crab cakes, crudos and steaks. The appetizers are underwhelming for the price, so skip the onion dip and salad and split a few entrees instead.

The French Onion & Creme Fraiche Dip with Trout Roe was tasty, but overpriced at $22

The steak frites is textbook, served alongside thin, crisp fries. Virginia’s is best known for its burger, which remains a star menu item. This is truly one of the better burgers I’ve had in a while – the perfectly medium rare patty is complemented with sharp cheddar and a delightful onion marmalade. The crab cake is average and should have been priced as an appetizer for the size.

Skip the banana pudding - you’d do better at Magnolia’s

I would skip dessert, especially the heavily instagrammed banana pudding that Virginia’s adamantly pushes - it was bland and tacky. Instead, get your sweet fix through a night cap, as their cocktail program is quite strong. The negroni and espresso martini in particular were quite good.

Vibe: The noise was unbearable from the moment we walked in. Despite not being at capacity, we received multiple warnings from our phones / watches (we were literally in the “Threshold of Pain”). This may have been a particularly boisterous night, but the owners seem to be concerned about the volume, as some of the tables have (ineffective) sound-absorbing foam underneath. While noise is a common challenge in many NYC restaurants, Virginia’s broke new ground - we left as quickly as possible.

How to do it right: If dining here were tolerable, the burger would be worth a visit. It will be a while before I venture back to Virginia’s, but if you want to try it, attempt to avoid the noise by coming during off-peak hours, opting for brunch, or snagging a seat outdoors. Go light on the appetizers and focus on the mains where Virginia’s truly shines. If Virginia’s can better control the volume, the comfortable décor and classic bistro fare would make it a universally-appealing spot for solo diners, couples and groups.